tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632928765983902491.post8255309128645547861..comments2023-05-31T08:13:57.522-06:00Comments on The Ultimate Answer to Kings: Huh. That's weird.Joelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03442354270552212335noreply@blogger.comBlogger2125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632928765983902491.post-3261998028655032942010-12-18T13:27:32.417-07:002010-12-18T13:27:32.417-07:00We have both hot AND cold running water! Aren'...<i>We have both hot AND cold running water! Aren't you jealous?</i><br /><br />Envious even. I've been crippling along with an RV water heater for quite some time now. When the AC side of it quit - I changed out the thermocouple and ran it on gas. A week ago the gas side quit - probably a failed gas valve. Replacement cost on the gas valve for the 20+ y/o heater is around $170. Decided to get the AC side of it back up which means changing out the failed element.<br /><br />I imagine the folks who make water heater elements are sadistic SOBs who intentionally made the 'nut' of the element only 1/8" deep - and then they rounded off the corners of the hex and ground them down to about 1/16". There's a 'tool' for heater element r&r - if you could call it that. And I've a 1.5" socket with a 1/2" drive - but to make contact for any decent leverage on the nut one has to be dead-on perpendicular to the nut.<br /><br />Did I mention this is all taking place in situ - in what's euphemistically called the 'basement' of a 5th wheel? I've spent a considerable amount of the last 2 days pretzeled into that space - head resting on the humming inverter - ribs dented by the rise in an 'access' hatch - working around the a/c lines, plumbing traps, and water lines. <br /><br />I've got a great collection of scratches and cuts from wrench slips - and a blood blister from the same. I'm finally down to trying to hammer it loose with a chisel and repeated applications of penetrating oil within the few degrees of arc that's available. Naturally - too - the sheet metal box the heater is couched in means the actual 'nut' for the element is recessed a couple inches - so direct in-line force is out of the question.<br /><br />I'm tempted to drill out the center of the element with a 1/2" bit and get a big ole' EZ Out and twist that bugger out that way - but I'm not even sure I could get the EZ Out set as it's so tough to apply enough force that direction.<br /><br />All this because I really don't want to have to disconnect the whole darned heater and pull it out to work with it on the ground. Though - if I did - that nut wouldn't stand a chance - it'd probably be out within 15 minutes!<br /><br />I'm reminded of a mechanic buddy of mine who's last resort is the 'heat wrench' - but with all the penetrating oil and insulation for wicking - that probably wouldn't be such a great idea! <br /><br />Since I at least like the idea of warmish water - I'm doing all this with the tank still full and pressurised - a dowel rod strategically placed on the pilot actuator so that the pilot flame can take the chill off the water. I figure once I see that nut start to move on the element - then I'll crawl back out the the hatch and shut down the water and drain the tank - 'cause I don't feel like draining out a full tank of warmish water just to find at the end of the day I'm no closer to getting that element out of there.<br /><br />Starting to feel like one of those dwarves woking in the mines of Moria with all the tap - tap - tapping of the ball peen and the chisel down in that hole!<br /><br />So yes - I'm jealous!Plug Nickel Outfithttp://www.plugnickeltimes.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632928765983902491.post-70217096373420897162010-12-17T17:49:13.855-07:002010-12-17T17:49:13.855-07:00Good for you. Hot water is awesome!!Good for you. Hot water is awesome!!Adventures in Self Reliancehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11992613362743785392noreply@blogger.com