About a week ago I kinda-sorta promised a series on our own real-world form of "Eco-living." That, by the way, is not a term I've ever heard used out here. We just call it "living." Anyway, I haven't forgotten about it, and this is the first one: Getting Water.
If you're gonna live in the desert, there's a whole bunch of questions you need to answer. Ain't nobody gonna do it for you. And probably the most important question is, where's the water coming from? You need water. This is not optional.
I actually know some people who get along without a water well. It can be done, but it pretty much reduces you to marginal living right off the bat. I don't recommend it. If you do have a well dug, you still have a problem. Where we are, the water is roughly 250 feet down. Once the well is dug, artesian pressure may (also may not) push the water up the pipe somewhat. But it still isn't a shallow well. You won't be bringing it up with a hand pump or a windmill.
(There are exceptions to the windmill thing. Old-fashioned windmills are actually fairly common here, and some are even still in service. But those are quite shallow wells. Pockets of shallower water can be found, and I'm not enough of a geologist to be able to say why that is. But I can tell you the water from those shallow wells is not potable, except maybe in emergency. They're used for watering livestock.)
Anyway! Where was I? Oh, yeah. How to get the water out of a deep well. There are two ways, and they both require electricity.
Way One: A conventional AC pump. All the older wells around here use AC pumps, and they have advantages. Landlady's property has one, and it will fill the cistern at a rate of about 400 GPM which is pretty damned convenient. However it also requires one hell of a lot of amperage to run that pump. Until last summer, her solar power system wasn't capable of running the pump for more than 15 minutes or so at a time. So the only practical way to fill the cistern was to run the gasoline generator. Not so convenient. If the generator failed - and they do - you're screwed. Since the upgrade, it's a lot better - we can run the pump enough to fill the cistern during the day. But we still need to wait till late enough in the day for the batteries to have charged, and it's important that the pump not be running after nightfall. A couple of days ago I forgot I'd left the pump plugged in, and as soon as the sun went down the lights all went out.
Way Two: A DC low-flow pump. I discussed this pump in greater detail last summer here. The pump requires no AC power at all, which is great if you're locating it out in the middle of nowhere. It runs on 12 volts, generated by its very own 200-watt solar panel. No batteries are required, and in fact the electrical circuit is extremely simple! If the sun's shining and the float switch in the cistern says "pump water," the pump runs. The downside of this kind of pump is the flow rate, which is only about 1 GPM. It takes the better part of two days to fill a 2000-gallon cistern. I've heard of pumps with a higher flow rate, but not a lot higher. M paid for all this last summer for his Dome, and I'm plugged into it.
Most wellhouses don't need to be that high, of course; in fact most wells don't even have wellhouses. But since this one needed a roof big enough to accommodate a solar panel, we went ahead and put a door on it. And then somebody (I think M's Mom) sent him the subway sign. 8^)
Once you've got water in the cistern, your troubles are not over. Just sticking a hose on the bottom of the cistern will not give you usable water pressure. Here at Landlady's property, the water is drawn from the cistern to a pressure pump, which pressurizes a pressure tank, which supplies water pressure to her house. That provides yet another power drain and maintenance item - not to mention the expense.
M took another approach - altitude. The cistern is mounted on the ridge overlooking his dome, and he's got about 30' of drop from the cistern to the tap. That gives him some pressure without additional infrastructure, but I'm still waiting to see if he'll be happy with it. I'm on the other side of the ridge, down near the wash, substantially lower. I've got about 50' of drop, and I've got pressure to burn. Water blasts out of that tap. ;^)
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6 comments:
In places I've lived abroad, it was common for the water main to feed an open tank in the attic and then the taps/faucets are fed from that tank. From the water utility company perspective it is load balancing, in fact in one country we only really had public water supply for a few random hours a day.
I got used to gravity water, but for the shower a "power shower" or shower pump was a nice luxury. Then again I had a fairly low-slope roof in the place where I installed the shower-pump, so I only had a couple feet of head on the supply -- I suspect 25-30' is more than enough.
3/4" pipe for filling the bath and kitchen washbowls provided more than enough volume at low pressure.
Joel,
Bison pumps can lift water by hand from a "static depth" of 200 ft. Pricey but they will work when the electricty is off.
http://www.bisonpumps.com/
The solar setup is nice, but I think a windmill would be adviseable. I just don't trust electronic wizardry over tried and true methods... Windmills have pumped water here in semi-arid south Texas since windmills came to be, and continue to do so on remote ranches to this day. Solar doo-daddery relies on short lived batteries and electronical charge controllers, none of which will survive long post SHTF. Windmills, however, are easily maintained with the most "primitive" of technology. Lard and leather will keep 'em pumping when all else fails, and those two things will be available regardless. Just something to chew on...
Experiences of local ranchers I've spoken with are almost unanimous. Most of'em can't dump windmills fast enough. Maybe they can be fixed with lard'n'leather, but the problem is you need to so often. They're very high-maintenance items. And I've never seen one what will pull water up a 250-300 foot pipe. The one I know of around here is less than 100 feet deep.
And the only failure point for the solar pump I outlined is the pump itself. There are no batteries, no charge controller - well, not a very complex one - hell, hardly any electronics. The logic is exceedingly simple and brute force electrical - practically the only moving part. If the one tiny circuit board failed, I could rig a charge limiter with what I've got laying around here, and I'm no wizard. And it's not like anybody's gonna waste an EMP bomb on us.
In my area, a good well is drilled to 360 feet or more. The static level is 240 feet in good years and 300 feet after 30 months of drought. No hand pump is going to work that well - even if you could get one that deep, you'd be worn out in no time by lifting 300 feet of pump rod plus 250 feet or more of water column.
I stopped the car one day where a rancher was fixing his windmill, a classic air motor. There was a big concrete stock tank below, and cattle visible in the distance. I asked him how it worked for him.
"It doesn't. I put in an electric pump years ago. I just like to see it turn, and even with no pump to drive, the damned thing breaks 2-3 times a year!"
-S
Guess that answers that question! Had no idea they were such a pain...
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